*Liability Disclaimer: NuEyes Customs and the authors of these articles assume no liability for how any particular individual chooses to use the information presented here.

Pull back CV boot, using a putty knife, slowly fill CV, just like filling a hole in sheetrock. When CV's full, check torque on all CV bolts, and then replace boot and reclamp.

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Inspect center 'star' of CV, notice one side is flat and the other side has a raised lip.  Lay center 'star' on a flat surface, with the raised lip pointing down.
Inspect CV cage, notice that one side of cage has a larger opening than the other.  Slide cage over center 'star' with the larger opening facing down.
Inspect the CV's outer case, notice the groove on the outside of case.  Slide CV's outer case over 'star' and CV cage with groove on top.
Important: See pic, notice the ridges on the center 'star' and the inside of the outer case.  The small ridges on the outer case must align with the large ridges on the 'star' and vice versa.  If they are matched large to large and small to small, the CV's will lock up.

Now place the ball bearings into each hole of the CV cage.  Getting them all in will take a little maneuvering but they will all slip into place.  Be patient and keep working them, rocking center 'star' and cage.
Once CV is together, you're ready to install them on your buggy.  Groove on outside of outer case NEEDS to be facing transaxle or hub.  Just to verify, notice center 'star'.....the side with the raised lip should be facing axle.

Remove shock and raise trailing arm so hub's CV flange is level with transaxle flange.
Measure distance across, from center of transaxle flange to center of hub flange (the CV flanges are cupped, measure inside center of each cup).
Subtract 1/2" from total distance.
This is your axle length.

Q. What is the best coolant to use?
A. If freezing is not a concern we recommend water with a corrosion inhibitor. If freezing is a concern, use the proper amount of antifreeze required for your climate.
Q. Which radiator is recommended (aluminum or copper)?
A. We strongly recommend aluminum radiators. They dissipate heat more efficiently than copper brass.
Q. What size radiator should I use for my application?
A. We recommend using the largest (in surface area) that will fit into your vehicle.
Q. What would be the correct pressure cap rating to use?
A. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept.
Q. Which cooling fan do you recommend (electric or mechanical)?
A. Electric fans now outperform mechanical fans in nearly every application.

We strongly recommend NEVER using a restrictor: they decrease coolant flow and ultimately inhibit cooling.
For applications requiring a thermostat to keep the engine at operating temperature, we recommend using a high flow thermostat. This thermostat does not restrict flow when open.
A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly. However the cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are also allowing it to stay in the engine longer, which increases coolant temperatures. Coolant in the engine will actually boil away from critical heat areas within the cooling system if not forced through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity. This situation is a common cause of so-called "hot spots", which can lead to failures.
Years ago, cars used low pressure radiator caps with upright-style radiators. At high RPM, the water pump pressure would overcome the radiator cap's rating and force coolant out, resulting in an overheated engine. Many enthusiasts mistakenly believed that these situations were caused because the coolant was flowing through the radiator so quickly, that it did not have time to cool. Using restrictors or slowing water pump speed prevented the coolant from being forced out, and allowed the engine to run cooler. However, cars built in the past thirty years have used cross flow radiators that position the radiator cap on the low pressure (suction) side of the system. This type of system does not subject the radiator cap to pressure from the water pump, so it benefits from maximizing coolant flow, not restricting it.

Limiting Straps are cheap insurance for the amount of damage that could happen.
Straps protect your shocks from over extending, but more important protect your CV's from over angulation.
To be safe, stock CV's are good for about 21 degrees. Different opinions can range from 21 to 25 degrees. So to be safe, we'll focus on the 21 degrees.

You can measure your CV angulation by using a Angle Locator, see pic below.

-Insure car is level side to side.
-Place a Angle Locator on drive axles to measure how much angulation they have.
-Using a Car Jack, evenly raise the back end of the car.
-Raise back end until the Angle Locator reads 21 degrees.
-Now, measure the distance between the Limiting Strap mounting holes.
-Measuring from center of top hole to center of bottom hole.
-Subtract 1 inch and this is the needed Limiting Strap length.

Here's a couple tips, to make installing your new console a breeze.

BEFORE ATTEMPTING INSTALLATION, PLEASE READ THROUGH THIS ENTIRE TIP AND INSURE YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE AND TOTALLY UNDERSTAND PROCEDURE.  THIS IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY, PERFORM AT OWN RISK.

Most buggies have a floor that starts to angle up towards the front.  If your floor is completely flat, skip to mounting tip below.  Angled floors require console fabrication so they sit level and flush with buggy floor.

First is the shifter position....determine the location of your shifter, we like the shifter just about even with the front line of the seats.  But again, this is personal preference.  Also, shifter needs to be mounted on level side of floor, not on angled section.  FYI - shifter does not sit centered in console, due to the shifter linkage being offset in shifter housing.

Clamp the two console halves together so they're straight and level with each other...small c-clamps work great.

Position console to predetermined shifter location.  Shim up the back end of console, so it's level with the floor....keeping front of console touching floor....see illustration.

Center the console.  You now should have the console sitting in it's final resting spot, but raised up in the back so it's level with floor.

Where the floor and console are level with each other....measure the gap between them.

Use this measurement to make a shim for a fine tip marker....coins and tape work good for this. Tape everything together and verify shim is correct by holding a piece of cardboard straight up and dragging your shimmed marker along, marking cardboard. Measure distance from bottom of cardboard to marked line. Keep messing with shim pack until it equals gap measured earlier. This is important to insure console sits flush.

Do a quick once over, to verify console is where you want it...centered and lined up. Take your shimmed marker and starting right before floor starts to angle up...lay it flat on floor and gently drag, transferring floor angle to side of console. Perform on both sides.

Before cutting it out....lets look at the front of console.  Connecting side markings across the front will result in a unwanted gap.  When cutting across the front, very important to follow the angle of the side markings....see illustration.  Cut close to front line and use file to fine tune.

Ready to cut it out....take your time and follow your lines. Remember you can always cut more, but you can never replace what is already cut.
Use a file to clean up any sharp edges.

MOUNTING CONSOLE
To mount console, we'll use the NuEyes Mounting Kit, part #NE-CMK-0520.

Position console and insure straightness.  *Tip - use masking tape on floor underneath each side of console......position console, trace console outline, also mark on tape shifter location and seam for console halves.

Remove console and layout mounting brackets, 3 for front half and 2 for back half.
Using one bracket from each half, position them about 4" on each side of console seam. Space the remaining brackets to give good front to back support.....steering clear of the shifter location.

Position brackets inside traced console outline, drill mounting holes through floor and attach brackets with supplied hardware.

On masking tape, mark the center for each brackets Dzus tab mounting hole.

Set console back into position and transfer these marks onto each side of console....verify everything is lined up.  FYI - important, these determine the hole location we'll be drilling for the Dzus tab mounting holes.

Remove console and measure from the floor to center of each Dzus hole on brackets.

Transfer this reading to the marks previously made on console. You should now have 10 crossing horizontal and vertical lines....this is the center of tab holes.

Center punch where the lines cross and pilot drill all 10 holes. Final hole size should be 7/16", this leaves approximately .030 of play for each hole.
Clean up any burrs and install console.

Many people think that a "One Wire" alternator works by connecting just one wire. The only way for that to possibly work is if your battery has only "ONE" post.
Simply put; if your battery has two posts, your alternator connection requires two wires, as does every other electrical device made.
Insure that a good ground is grounding the alternator.

Electricity is simple if you remember these Two Rules: Nothing goes IN that can't come OUT and Electricity goes nowhere it's not invited.